Verdi in the Park

July 16, 2009

The La Scala Opera Company from Milan gave a free performance of the Verdi Requiem in Hayarkon Park tonight, as part of the yearlong celebration of Tel Aviv’s centenary. We packed a picnic dinner and headed to the park just before 7, when the gates opened for the 9 pm performance. As we rounded a grove of trees we saw a steady stream of people with baskets and coolers, heading to long security lines that moved surprisingly quickly. The only restriction was no chairs, apparently out of appreciation that this large, open bowl, could accommodate thousands on the lawn, in addition to the thousands of plastic chairs set up by the organizers, as well as another 500 or so seats right in front of the stage that were available for 1500 NIS. At one end of the broad expanse of a basin there was a massive stage, massive because it had to accommodate the orchestra and chorus. The backdrop of the stage was designed to look like the La Scala Opera House. After what seemed like a long 10 minute speech by Ron Huldai, the mayor, long especially because even after 5 months of ulpan I was only able to capture a phrase here and there, the soloists and Daniel Barenboim entered the stage. The magic began. The power of Verdi’s piece seemed to mesmerize the crowd of thousands—families with young children, elderly with walkers or wheel chairs, teens with their friends, and regular people (like us!). The sound system was superb; it was like sitting in a concert hall. With all of the opportunity for disruption, there was none, not even smoking apparently, as Verdi carried us upward.