What Makes a Place Holy?

June 16, 2009

We continued our historical, religious, political explorations going from the Tunnels last night to the Temple Mount (or to Muslims, the Noble Sanctuary) this morning. Speaking of the overly used “iconic,” the Golden dome of the Dome of the Rock is surely the most recognized symbol of Jerusalem. Entrance for non-Muslims is restricted to a single gate, accessible by way of a long, covered ramp that winds its way down from the western wall of the Temple Mount down to the Kotel plaza. From the plaza below, only trees are visible, as are the Dome of the Rock and Al Aqsa Mosque, so one is taken aback by the vastness of flat, open space, when emerging from the ramp exit. Non-Muslims are permitted on the Temple Mount at the whim of the Waqf, the Muslim authorities who were granted this authority after the Six Day War, and none are permitted during prayer times. Although there are tour groups and the ubiquitous individual guides (“tour for 100 shekels, no, then how about 80 shekels, how about 60 shekels…”), the site is calm and peaceful, unlike the cacophony of the plaza below, reflecting the openness on the top of the mountain, in contrast to the enclosed spaces below. There are olive trees, cedars, and several small structures, but obviously the site is dominated by the Dome and the Mosque. I was left with two thoughts. First, between the historical presence of the Jewish Temple and the Dome of the Rock, on the site formerly occupied by the Temple, before its destruction by the Romans in 70 CE, this must be one of the most holy grounds in the entire world. This feeling, while standing on the site, underscores the pain of the vitriol that contrasts so mightily with religious hopes for peace and justice. Second, considering the archeological value of the Tunnels excavation along the Western Wall, this morning, in front of the Dome of the Rock and on the site of the Temple, we were surely standing on the most valuable, most alluring archeological site in the Middle East, if not the world. The secrets that are held by this site are unlikely to ever be revealed, because it is on this site that history, religion and politics collide with an unmatched intensity.

As we wandered through the narrow passage-ways of the Arab market, the sounds of hawkers, customers, children scurrying about, men sitting and arguing the issues of the day slowly and barely perceptibly started to give way. The sound of hymnal chanting grew in a gradual crescendo. A few seconds later we saw the makings of a procession along the narrow pathway and then the formation was clear. A group of Korean pilgrims, led by one dragging a six-foot wooden cross draped over his shoulder, slowly and rhythmically marched by, re-tracing the steps of Jesus on the Via Dolorosa, sharing their spiritual yearning with all along their path.